Articles & Advice

Below are some articles and web pages that contain advice on looking after your pet.
Puppy Vaccinations- costs and advice (Category: Canine)
 
We advise vaccinating your puppy at 8 weeks of age and again at 10 weeks of age.
If the puppy is older than 8 weeks when the first vaccine is given, then the 2nd dose is simply given 2 weeks later.
Your puppy would then be ready to venture out onto the streets 2 weeks after the 2nd vaccination is given.
 
It is very important to keep young pup's away from pavements, parks etc until they have completed the vaccination course.
Parvo virus is a common killer in the Gravesend area and typically affects young puppy's. The virus is very easily spread and you should not expose your puppy to any places where unknown dogs might have been until they are protected.
 
On the otherhand early socialisation of puppy's is VITALLY important (see below) and puppy's should have full access to gardens, friends gardens and other dogs that are known to be healthy.
 
DO NOT keep your puppy locked up indoors, if you need advice then please phone the surgery and ask to speak to Nicky.
 
The vaccine we currently use will give your puppy protection against several diseases
 
Parvovirus
Coronavirus
Distemper (hardpad)
Leptospirosis
Infectious Hepatitis virus
Parainfluenza virus (one of the forms of kennel cough)
 
Your puppy will then require a YEARLY booster (one injection) to maintain protection levels.
 
The cost of vaccianations (as of Jan 2008) is
Puppy Vaccination course £58- each injection is £29.
This includes a full health check up, puppy pack with free samples and information leaflets, a free dose of wormer, a free dose of flea control and any advice/help you may require.
 
Your puppy will then require a yearly booster which is £31 (Jan O8)
Kitten Vaccinations- costs and advice (Category: Feline)
 
We advise vaccinating your kitten at 9 weeks of age and again at 12 weeks of age.
If the kitten is older than 9 weeks at the time of the first vaccination then the 2nd would simply be given 3 weeks later.
Your kitten would then be ready to venture outside 1 week after the 2nd vaccination is given- should you so wish.
 
Unlike puppy's, kitten's are best kept totally indoors until they have completed the vaccination course but should still be exposed to as many new people, children, sights, sounds and smells as possible.
 
The vaccine we currently use will give your kitten protection against several diseases-·
Calicivirus- one form of cat flu
Herpes virus- another form of cat flu
Feline Enteritis
Chlamydia virus
Leukaemia virus
 
Your kitten will then require a YEARLY booster (1 injection) to maintain protection levels
 
The cost of vaccinations (as of Jan 2008) is
 
Kitten vaccination course £62- each injection is £31. This includes a full health check up, kitten pack with free samples and information leaflets, free dose of flea control and any help.advice you may need.
 
Your kitten will then need a yearly booster which is £36 (Jan 08)
Flea Control (Category: Canine and Feline)
In keeping with our policy of offering our clients the best available treatment for their pets, we would like to offer the following recommendations for flea control.
 
FLEA CONTROL
Fleas are not only a nuisance to you and your pet but they can also cause serious health problems by infesting your pet with the flea TAPEWORM.
 
Allergies to flea bites can also cause mild to severe skin irritations in pets. In today's carpeted and centrally heated homes, fleas are a year round problem and are no longer confined to the summer months.
 
LIFE CYCLE IN BRIEF
 
 
Adult fleas living on your pet will lay eggs- 1 flea can lay upto 2000 eggs. These eggs are not sticky and will fall off your pet into the surounding environment- your carpet/the pets bedding etc
The eggs will then develop into larvae (small catapillar like creatures)
These larvea will crawl around in the carpet/bedding undectected, feeding off flea dirt and other scraps found.
The larvae will then spin a cocoon (rather like a butterfly) and turn into a pupea.
In this form the flea can survive quite hapily form a few days to several months. Eventually and depending on several conditions like temperature or movement in the house, the baby flea will emerge from the pupea.
The young fully formed flea will then hop onto the next pet who happens to walk past or you if no pets are present.
These young fleas are now adults and will start laying eggs- the whole process starts again.
80% of any flea problem will be found in your home enviroment and only 20% on your pet.
For this reason, to control fleas effectively, you need to kill not only the adult fleas seen on your pet but also the flea larvea/young fleas living in your house.
 
TREATMENTS AVAILABLE
 
There are many different treatment available on the market to treat fleas- some are much more effective than others.
 
Shampoos- these will only kill any fleas on the pet at the time of shampooing and generally have no long lasting residual effect
 
Powders- can offer some relief but again generally have no long lasting effect because the powder falls out of the coat
 
Sprays- With one exception (which is only available on prescription from your vet) these are generally no longer available in veterinary practice. May still be purchased elsewhere but give varying levels of protection
 
Spot On Drops- there are many different brands of spot on treatments available, we would recommend the brands we sell at the surgery- which are ONLY available on prescription from veterinary practices. We know that these products actually work, we are able to give you good advice on their correct use and we are able to give you the right size product for your pet.
 
Injections- there are injections available for CATS ONLY- these need to be given every 6 months (see below)
 
Tablets- There are short acting tablets available for cats and dogs and tablets for dogs which work in the same way as the cat injections.
 
WE WOULD ADVISE THE FOLLOWING- SPOT ON TREATMENTS- These are all POM drugs and only available on prescription from your vet.
We offer a FREE check up for any of these products, should your pet require it. There are several different types of spot on treatments, all of which are applied monthly to the back of the neck. They give protection simply for fleas and flea larvae in the enviroment or for fleas, flea larvae, roundworm, hookworm, whipworm, heart worm, sarcoptes mites (mange), demodex mites and otodectes mites (ear mites) - all this in a single monthy spot on.
 
For those pets traveling abroad or at risk in this counrty there are also spot on's available to treat fleas, TICKS and repel mosquitoes and sandflys.
 
INJECTIONS FOR CATS ONLY- these injections are given every 6 months. The injections do not kill adult fleas but give very good enviromental protection for your home, thereby protecting your pet as well. All the animals living in your house (cats and dogs) would need to be given the same treatment. Dogs are given tablets- see below. This product is very safe and can be given in combination with other flea products.
 
TABLETS FOR DOGS ONLY- this is a monthly tablet given
 with food. These are a prescription only medicine. These tablets work in the same way as the injections for cats giving good enviromental protection.
 
CAPSTAR TABLETS- these tablets can be sold to you over the counter without the need to see the vet. Capstar tablets will kill all adult fleas found on your pet very quickly- fleas normally start dying after 10-15 minutes. The effect of the tablet lasts about 24 hours. These tablets can be used in combination with any other flea control product and are a very quick and easy way to bring relief to a pet in the short term. They can be given daily or as required to control the fleas. Enviromental protection will need to be used.
Hot Weather and Heat Stroke (Category: Canine and Feline)
Dogs and Cats suffer from hot weather and it is very important to keep them cool when the temperature rises.
Severe cases can lead to a condition called 'Heat Stroke' or correctly 'Hyperthermia'. This is when the bodies temperature is much higher than it's normal level. Unless treated quickly, Heat Stroke can be fatal.
We see dogs die from this easily preventable condition every summer.
 
What you can do to help-
  • Never ever leave your dog (or cat) in a car on a warm or hot day. Even with the windows open, the inside of a car can become like an oven
  • Make sure youe pet has access to plently of cool fresh drinking water
  • Go for walks early in the mornings or late evenings when it is cooler. If you do take them out during the heat of the day then don't over do it- keep them on a lead.
  • Keep them calm when it's hot- over exercise on a hot day will lead to heat stroke.
  • Conservatories act like the inside of a car- not a good place to leave your pet on a hot day.
  • A cool shower from a hose pipe would be appreciated.
  • Give them ice cubes or ice chips to chew and lick
Signs of Heat Stroke-
 
  • Panting excessively
  • Anxious behaviour
  • Very red gums, turning blue in extreme cases
  • Salivating
  • Very rapid heart rate
  • In severe cases- collapse, convulsions, shock and death
What to do if your pet becomes too hot-
  • Seek medical advice from your vet straight away- this can be a fatal condition.
  • Cool the animal by immersing in a bath of tepid water or hosing with a hose pipe
  • Use a fan on the dog to increase the air flow
  • If conscious then give them ice cubes to chew and lick
  • Allow them to drink as much water as they want- in small quantities at a time
  • Cover with towels soaked in ice cold water
  • Keep them out of the sun in a cool place
  • Get them to your vet for a check up as soon as possible
Rabbit Teeth problems and Correct Nutrition (Category: Rabbit)
"why do rabbits get tooth problems?"

Wild rabbits survive incredibly well in the fields and woods here in England, and never have to see a dentist! Why do so many of our pet rabbits need a dentist? It is because wild rabbits eat what evolution designed them to eat: grass, grass and more grass with a bit of herbs on the side. For some reason years ago, someone decided that rabbits need to eat "rabbit food", and ever since the we have fed a commercial mix of concentrated dried food. Unknown to us this has had a number of bad effects.
  1. The chewing action required to eat grass is totally different in rabbits to that required to chew pellets and hard food. Evolution made rabbits to eat grass and their teeth are especially modified to do this. Their teeth grow continuously through their lives, not like ours, but more like an elephants tusks. Unlike an elephant's tusks, though, the upper and lower jaw teeth should meet each other and grind or wear each other down at exactly the same rate at which they grow. The result is that they appear to stay the same length always, but in fact they are being constantly replaced and sharpened.
    However, if the rabbit is offered the wrong sort of food, and not grass, the chewing action is wrong. The teeth are ground down in the wrong pattern and overgrow, and the result can be nasty sharp points or spikes developing, just like elephants' tusks. These points appear on the upper teeth outside, and dig into the flesh of the cheek, and on the lower teeth they appear on the inner side and dig into the tongue. It becomes painful for the rabbit to chew at all, and eventually they starve to death, unless a vet helps out.
  2.  The wrong food also has resulted in insufficient calcium in their food, just like some old people experience osteoporosis for other reasons, this results in brittle bones, and teeth that show poor quality, and loosening in their sockets. This loosening allows a wobbliness of the teeth, which contributes further to the lack of wear, and so the over-growing process.
  3. Previous forms of rabbit concentrate feed have consisted of lots of different types of seed, pellets etc. Just like one of us with a box of quality Street, some rabbits would pick out their favourites and leave their least preferred pieces. This has resulted in rabbits not getting the right balance of vitamins and minerals, even if all the right things were originally mixed into the food. These days, new foods like Supa Excel or Supreme Science Selective are available where all the goodness is mixed into one uniform Pellet, so the rabbit cannot pick and choose, and refuse part of its food.
  4. Many  rabbits enjoys their concentrate food, and some rabbits will not eat grass, vegetables of herbs. It is almost as if they have become addicted to what is bad for them. There is a very direct comparison with us humans. We know chocolate isn't good for our weight, nor for our teeth, but we still prefer it to health foods! It is the same for rabbits, but they cannot be expected to understand what is good for them and what isn't. We have to do their thinking for them. The concentrate feed tastes great to them, but it really is dangerous to their long-term health.

Our advice is this:

All rabbits over 6 months old should be allowed only a restricted amount of concentrate food a day, or preferably none at all. The bulk of their food should be grass and hay (which is after all just dried grass). Fresh fruit and vegetables are also perfectly acceptable. Try to get back to a natural food for your rabbit and you will be doing it a huge favour. An adult dwarf rabbit should get no more than 1 level tablespoon a day, and larger rabbits one heaped to two tablespoons a day. Ask your vet for specific advice for your rabbit.

If your rabbit is not keen on fresh food, start by ensuring unlimited access for fresh hay. This may be Western Timothy Hay or Norfolk Pastures dust free hay, grass hay or alfalfa. Alfalfa is the most fattening, but some rabbits have a preference for one or the other. There is some concern that hay may be a source of mites and other parasites, following contamination on the farm or in transport by wild rodents or rabbits. If this is a concern, try freezing and defrosting all hay before feeding it to your pet.

In addition to hay, start adding 1 new vegetable at a time, a new one every 4-5 days. Only offer any new food in small quantities at first. Build up to feeding a minimum 3 vegetables a day, and 1 type of fruit. About one heaped cup for every 2kg (5lb) bodyweight. If your rabbit develops soft stools continue feeding the new food, but only in very small quantities for 48 hours. The motions should then be normal. If not, eliminate the new food from its diet. The same rules apply for their introduction to grass: start with 10 minutes, and build up over 5-7 days to a whole morning, and later all day out on grass.

Vegetables
Choose one a day of the following, which are rich in vitamin A:
» Beet greens
» Broccoli including the leaves
» Carrot and carrot tops
» Collard greens
» Parsley
» Pea Pods of the flat edible kind
» Watercress.

Other useful vegetables:
» Spring Greens
» Basil
» Brussel sprouts
» Cabbage
» Celery
» Coriander
» Clover
» Dandelion leaves and flowers
» Green peppers
» Mint
» Peppermint leaves
» Radicchio
» Radish tops
» Raspberry leaves

Spinach and kale can be given in small quantities but are toxic if given over a period of time.

Fruits
Give one of these daily, fresh or dried one tablespoon per 2kg (5lb) bodyweight.
» Apple
» Banana
» Blueberries
» Melon
» Papaya
» Peach
» Pear
» Pineapple
» Strawberries

But, if your pet is very overweight, after settling it on the grass only diet, you should use no fruit at all, until they are at target weight.

Dry Food
Rabbits up to 6 months old may have free access to dry food/pellets, as they are still growing. After that they should be severely restricted as above.


 

 
 

Maggots/Flystrike and how to prevent it happening (Category: Rabbit)

Flystrike...

This is the terrible disease we only see in summer, where flies lay their eggs on the rabbit's bum and maggots hatch out. The maggots want to eat the rabbit's flesh, and can kill the rabbit very painfully within a few days. It is particularly horrific both for the rabbit and for its owner, but it can be prevented:

  1. Avoid letting your rabbit get a dirty bottom. The files are attracted to the smell, and love to lay their eggs on dirty fur. So follow the advice below in the dirty bottom section.
  2. Don't let your rabbit get too fat to groom itself, or to coprophage.
  3. Use an insect repellent directly onto your rabbit: ask your vet for advice on which one to choose. BUT DO NOT USE FRONTLINE CAT AND DOG FLEA SPRAY OR SPOT-ON ON A RABBIT
  4. Consider keeping the hutch inside a shed or garage in summer, as many flies dislike going indoors.
  5. Then you can also use a fly repellent, like Vapona in the shed, so the flies that do go in, get killed before they can lay their eggs.
  6. Keep the hutch clean, and change dirty bedding regularly, as flies are attracted to the smell of the rabbits' toilet.

    And most important of all
  7. Check your rabbits' bottoms are clean and free from flies' eggs or maggots every 12 hours from May to September. If there is dirt or eggs, wash them off in a warm bath, and if there are maggots, contact a vet at once. It has to be twice daily checking, as once maggots are hatched, if the vet doesn't see it within about 6 hours, we usually cannot save the rabbit, and sometimes not even then. Twice a week, or once a day checking just isn't enough.

Rabbits and Dirty Bottoms (Category: Rabbit)
The vast majority of owners assume a dirty bottom means diarrhoea, but in fact this is rarely the case. It is more likely to be because the rabbit has been unable to reach its bottom to clean it.

Rabbits have to eat their food twice to get any goodness out of it. This is known as coprophagia and is perfectly o.k. and natural. The first time they eat their grass it is partially digested, and then passed out of the anus as a soft pale brown wet faeces. We humans normally never see this, as it is immediately re-eaten by the rabbit, and this usually occurs in the night. This food is then digested a second time and results in the hard black pellets we are familiar with.

So a dirty bottom is usually occurring where, for one reason or another, the rabbit is unable to reach its mouth to its anus, and eat its "night faeces". They seem to refuse to take it once it has got onto the bedding. Sometimes it is so sticky that the next pellets get all glued together onto the tail, and this gets worse and worse, day by day, building up into a solid smelly lump.

To prevent this happening, one needs to find out why the rabbit can't reach properly. Most often it is because the rabbit is overweight! Their huge saggy stomach gets in the way!! Sometimes it is because it is unwell, or in pain, or has arthritis in its back. A vet would need to assess whether this was the case.

But if the problem is just porkiness, what could be done to prevent it? Quite a lot!
  1. Start the natural diet discussed above, preferably cutting out concentrates altogether in the summer when the grass is lush and nutritious. Please note that this is the total opposite of previous advice vets were giving to solve this problem. We used to stop all wet foods, but now we understand that this was wrong. If you do feed concentrate then consider using something like Supa Excel Light...which is low calorie and designed to help bunnies lose weight safely.
  2. Insist on lots of exercise for your rabbit. Make it hop about the garden or run looking for its food, rather than taking food to it.
  3. Avoid all those yummy tidbits we know we shouldn't feed like choc drops, milk drops, toast etc.

As the rabbit slims down, the dirty bottom will miraculously disappear!


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